herbology
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Oakmoss Essential Oil 10% in DPG
Oakmoss Extract
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INCI Name:
Evernia Prunastri Extract (and) Dipropylene Glycol (DPG)
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Molecular Formula:
Not a single formula (natural lichen extract mixture)
Key aroma compounds include: Evernic acid (C₁₅H₁₆O₇), atranorin (C₁₉H₁₈O₈)
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CAS Number:
- Oakmoss Extract: 90028-68-5
- DPG: 25265-71-8
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Alternate Names:
- Evernia Prunastri
- Oakmoss Absolute
- Moss Extract
- Tree Moss
- Chypre Base Ingredient
- 10% Oakmoss Solution
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Benefits & Uses (Short):
- Provides deep earthy, mossy, forest-like aroma
- Essential for chypre and fougère perfume structures
- Adds richness, depth, and natural “wet forest” character
- Used in perfumes, attars, incense, candles, soaps, detergents (restricted use in some regions)
- Acts as a strong natural fixative
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How It Works (Short):
- Works as a complex lichen-derived aromatic resin extract containing multiple phenolic and terpenoid compounds
- Binds strongly to base notes, slowing evaporation and increasing longevity
- Creates a damp, woody-earthy aroma profile that enhances natural realism in perfumes
- DPG acts as a carrier solvent, ensuring uniform dilution and easier formulation handling
- Enhances contrast in perfumes by grounding floral and citrus top notes with earthy depth
- Provides structure to classic chypre accords by stabilizing oakmoss–patchouli–labdanum frameworks
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FAQs:
Q: Why is Oakmoss used in perfumes?
A: It gives deep earthy, mossy, and natural forest-like character essential for chypre fragrances.
Q: Is Oakmoss natural or synthetic?
A: It is a natural lichen extract, though often reformulated or restricted due to allergens.
Q: Why is it diluted in DPG?
A: Because it is very strong and sticky; dilution improves handling and dosage accuracy.
Q: Is Oakmoss still widely used?
A: Yes, but with restrictions due to regulatory limits on allergenic compounds.
Q: What does it smell like?
A: Earthy, damp forest, woody, slightly leathery and bitter-green aroma.
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